09 January 2013

Feliz año nuevo from Buenos Aires! - Spanish in Argentina

I arrived in ´the Paris of South America´ on New Year´s Eve after spending 32 hours in the air, stopping in Dubai and Rio de Janeiro. This is Rio airport. It has three gift shops selling nothing but Havaianas, no airconditioning, and architecture that appears to have been influenced by shipping containers.



The excitement of Rio Airport

At the airport in Argentina, I loaded my overstuffed backpack onto my back before realising that I was supposed to remove it to go through a security checkpoint. Unfortunately, there were no chairs for me to sit down and dump the backpack. An unfriendly-looking Customs official gestured for me to remove the backpack, which would not happen without me falling over. Unable to recall the Spanish word for ´heavy´, I resorted to repeating the phrase ´I am a turtle´ whilst flailing my arms about and miming falling over backwards. It worked!

After I checked into my hostel I took the longest (and coldest, which is apparently common in Buenos Aires) shower of my life, I wandered off to a nearby street party underneath a monument called the Obelisco. A group of girls saw I was alone and offered to keep me company. I´d heard horror stories about the difficulty of understanding Argentinian Spanish, so I was glad that I could understand most of what they were saying. As it turned out, they were actually from Mexico. (And Argentinian Spanish is every bit as incomprehensible as I´d been warned.)

My new Mexican friends

Over the next few days, I learned the following interesting facts about Buenos Aires:

- Most people speak no English, including customs officials, cab drivers and the people who work at McDonald´s. I don´t mean ´not much English´, I mean No English. My phrasebook is my new best friend. 
- Due to inflation, coins are worth less than the metal they´re made of and so they ´disappear´ from circulation. However, coins are also essential for buses and laundromats, so everyone hoards any coins they come across. As a result, coins are even rarer - and more sought-after - than hot showers. 
- Due to the coin shortage, hundred-peso bills (worth about $20) are nigh on impossible to break. These are the only bills that most ATMs dispense, which can make buying things difficult. Also, plenty of notes are fake, and you need to check four different features (watermark, raised print, metallic seal, iridescent ink) before accepting one. As a result, checkout lines in Buenos Aires move very slowly.
- An important note for prospective travellers: some places do not accept credit cards with a security chip, so it is good to have a backup card with no chip. Being shouted at in incomprehensible Argentinian Spanish after I tried to pay for lunch with a hundred-peso bill and then a chip credit card is not an experience I would like to repeat. 
- There are SO MANY DOGS HERE. Also, many people hire dog walkers, so packs of dogs are a common sight. Given the terrible traffic, I think that the use of Arctic-style dogsleds for transport will begin soon.
Dogs are everywhere!!
After spending a few days at the hostel, on Saturday I arrived at my homestay. My homestay family don´t speak English, so my phrasebook accompanies me to the dinner table. Tonight we had a conversation where my host mother, unable to find the words ´monkey´ or ´butterfly´ in my phrasebook, instead mimed jumping around in monkey-fashion and flapping her arms like a butterfly. I am beginning to suspect that the ´I am a turtle´ incident at the airport may become a common occurence here.

My room has a lovely balcony overlooking the barrio (suburb) of Recoleta.

My balcony
I start classes tomorrow, in a beautiful building just near the Congresso government house. I haven´t taken a photo of the school yet, but I do have a photo of this amazing building near the Casa Rosada. It houses the Ministry of Defence, and the giant tank parked out the front really adds to the ambiance of the place.

Ministry of Defence

Buenos Aires is a beautiful city with a lot of idiosyncracies which can be frustrating, especially for travellers who aren´t confident with speaking Spanish. That said, pizza costs about a dollar, so it´s definitely worth visiting.

Hasta mas tarde,
Jayne


Jayne Krempin is currently on the Intensive Spanish in Argentina program running in January 2013. Jayne is in her 3rd year of a Bachelor of Science at the University of Newcastle.










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